Gee, thanks Steve. How about next time you give me another easy request? Like, have me give the correct answer to the question, “Do these pants make me look fat?” [Editor: Yes]

Well, I think that there are really two issues at hand here. The first issue is when you should stop riding on a temporary basis. The second (and less attractive subject) is, when you should hang up the helmet for good. While I was pondering this, I had an epiphany: The answer to both of these questions is derived from exactly the same issues. The very same points that will temporarily stop you from riding can end up stopping your riding career permanently. But, I’m getting ahead of myself. Let’s first look at the factors concerning riding.

When you break it down, there are really only two factors that will dictate your ability to ride. These are your physical ability and your mental ability. When asked which is more important, most people will say they believe that the physical ability is more important than mental ability. Unfortunately, nothing could be further from the truth. Without a doubt, your mental ability is the most important factor and, ironically enough, is the toughest factor for you accurately gauge.

When evaluating your physical condition, it is pretty obvious if you are unable to safely operate a motorcycle or scooter. You could have a problem resulting from injury, disability or even physical stature. Regardless, you know that if you can’t stand the machine upright, work the controls with both hands and both feet or see where you are going, making the decision to stop riding is pretty easy and very obvious. How long you stop will be dictated by the length of time needed to overcome the physical limitation. In some cases, it can be minutes or hours. In other cases, it can be permanent.

The real problem is when you are dealing with the mental abilities of the rider. A great man (and the person who trained me) once said, “Motorcycling is 90% mental and 10% physical”. This was one of those lines that you accept at face value when you hear it…but once you start really thinking and evaluating it, you realize just how insightful and true it is. When you really consider it, your mental ability drives most of your physical ability. What we physically do while we are riding is mostly done without conscious thought.

The repetitive actions eventually become what instructors define as “muscle memory”. You really aren’t consciously evaluating exactly what you are doing most of the time. Do you want proof? OK, tell me exactly how far (in specific measurements) you need to squeeze the brake lever(s) to come to a stop from 40-mph. Tell me why people are able to turn at speed when they might not even know what counter-steering” is (and in some cases, actually deny that it occurs). Tell me how much throttle you need to roll on to attain 30-mph from a stop.

The point is that you can’t equate these things because you don’t measure them and you don’t think about them in these terms. This is the reason why professional training is so important. Since you don’t measure these things or even think about them (and in an emergency, you don’t have the time at all!), then you need to know that your body and your reflexes are up to the task. The only way to do this is with practice with a qualified and certified professional who will evaluate your performance and provide you with tips and corrections along the way.

Almost all physical abilities are driven by your mental abilities. You can have the world’s greatest eyesight, but it is useless if you aren’t scanning actively and correctly. You can have superhuman reflexes, but they will have no benefit if you just grab at the controls. You can have incredible strength, but it has no value without precision and coordination. All of these physical things are useless without skills and skills are something that is learned. You cannot learn new skills or utilize current skills if you are not mentally up to the task. There are machine designs and even prosthetics that can help you overcome some physical limitations and allow you to ride reasonably safely. There are no prosthetics for the mind.

So, getting back to the original question, “When do you stop riding?” Let’s review the factors that should dictate when you roll to a stop and drop the sidestand.

Hungry

If you are anything like 99% of the population, you know that there is always room for dessert! That being said, we are not talking about when you could have something to eat. We are talking about when you MUST have something to eat. Being hungry is distracting at best and can actually make you sluggish or weak or light-headed at worst. Stop and get something to eat and recharge.

Thirsty

It goes beyond just feeling thirsty. You will shed an enormous amount of fluids when riding (especially in hot weather). You might not even realize you have lost so much fluid until you start experiencing life-threatening issues. A good rule of thumb is you should continue to drink until you go to the bathroom regularly. This of course, brings us to our next point…

Bathroom

We all experienced the pain and the cramping so I don’t think I need to elaborate! Suffice to say, you are more inclined to do foolish and risky things when your stomach is bloated and in knots!

Alcohol

Drinking and riding don’t mix. I’m sure you all have heard this before. However, what you probably haven’t heard is the exact reasons why. Alcohol will affect three things right from the start. First, it will affect your vision. Second, it will affect your motor skills. Third, and this is the real problem, it affects your judgment. This means that the third factor will make you unaware of the first two factors. Since I’ve already stated that motorcycling is 90% mental and that your mental ability drives most of your physical abilities, impairing that ability is a recipe for disaster.

Tired

“Oh, I just have a few miles more to go. I just can’t wait to get home!”

Sound familiar? Yes, we have all done it and yes, we probably will do it again. However, riding while tired has so many risks for obvious reasons. Try and resist the urge to keep pressing on and find a place to pull over for a bit.

Cold

The cooler weather can be a motorcyclist’s best friend. However, when the temperature really begins to drop, we are always the first ones to know it! Cold weather riding is perfectly safe if you are dressed for it and trained for the unique dangers. Unfortunately (and regardless of gear), there can be times that the chill just continues to seep in despite our best efforts. Cold weather will affect you both mentally and physically.

The mental part is that when you are cold, you are slower to react and slower to perceive threats. The physical part comes from how the body deals with the cold. Your extremities will get reduced blood flow as your body attempts to keep the heat in your core (torso). This means that you will lose feeling in your extremities and, in some cases, the ability to use them.

Speaking from personal experience, there was a time that I was very cold while riding and when I went to use the front brake, I found that my right hand just wouldn’t obey my commands. I was lucky in that I was on the highway alone and was only looking to slow down for my exit. In this case, I missed the exit and learned a lesson. It could easily have been another outcome if I had to perform an emergency maneuver.

Angry

Just had a fight with your spouse or significant other? Mad at the boss because of something at the office? Whatever the reason, driving while angry is something you want to avoid at all costs. Take it from a guy who rides in NYC…you can’t let yourself fall into the trap of riding while angry or getting angry while riding. Much like alcohol, as our anger level rises, our judgment and reasoning diminishes. You are more inclined to do risky (or even outlandish) things when you get mad and frustrated enough.

Rain

While it can be a nuisance…I find that a trained rider will have no problem operating their machine in the rain as long as extra care is given to the situation. However, when it first begins to rain, you should not attempt to ride. Oil, anti-freeze, diesel and a litany of other really slippery substances will rise to the road surface when it first begins to rain. Remember that oil and oil-based materials are lighter than water. So, whatever is embedded in the road surface will be forced to rise to the surface when it begins to rain. The good news is that the characteristics that make them rise to the surface also work to clean them off the surface in a short time. So, if you are caught in a rain that is just beginning, find a place to pull over for a little while until the rain has a chance to wash the surface free of the slippery stuff.

Finally, if at all possible, take extra care while riding at dawn or dusk. While you may have excellent eyesight, a significant portion of the population encounters a visual problem adjusting to these conditions. As any rider can attest to…it is like we are invisible out there on the best of occasions. During dawn and dusk, we are even MORE invisible!

Determining when you should stop riding is really a matter or understanding and accepting the conditions you are presented with. How long it lasts is entirely up to when you can manage these situations and conditions. It may be a few minutes or it may be a few hours. It may end up being days, weeks, months or even years. The fact remains that it all depends on your physical ability and your mental abilities.

Ride often and ride safe!

-Joe

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

As promised, here is the video of my day ride with some friends at work.

Part 2

I wish I had left the camera in from Lynchburg to Swanee. The roads were nice and twisty.

Hope you enjoy it.

Ride Safe,

Dave Netherton
The Smyrna Cowboy

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©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

Carl sent in the following photo to share with you. Here is what he had to say about it.

“In this photo three brothers are rejoined together in a joint venture in which brought them together after a time of seperation from each other . We went from the central part of Wisconsin up to the Mac a Nac Island ,MI just touring the area and then proceeded over to Superior and down towards La crosse,WI. This trip was their Wild Hogg adventure and a bonding experience.(” The Lord said it is not good for man to be alone so he created brothers to ride with and cruse this land and feel free as the wind!)”

Three Brothers Burgman

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

On September 2nd, some of my co-workers and I are planning a ride to take in some of the Tennessee backroads. ALF and my camera’s are going to record the run. Last count it was 4 Harley’s and one Burgman. Tune in next week and see what happens. It should be interesting.

Until then,

Have fun and ride safe.

Dave Netherton A.K.A The Smyrna Cowboy

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©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

As most of you know, I am a Vlogger on Live Video and You Tube. The Live Video vloggers group got together this year and made a trip to Deals Gap in August. For those of you that don’t know what Deals Gap is, It’s a stretch of road ( HWY 129 ) from Tenn to NC that is 11 miles long with 318 curves.

It’s a motorcycle mecca across the country. If you like curves and twisties, this is the place for you. The Live Video group had quite a few people come to the rally this year. One as far as Melbourne, Australia. Others were from all across the country. TX, NJ, PA, MO, VA, FLA, LA and TN. A lot of video was shot it was a great trip. Only one rider went down but it wasn’t a very bad high side. He has been riding this road for a LONG time and in the blink of an eye, it can happen. Click watch in High Quality.

Before this rally, IKE, Suburban Rider (He came down from Elgin, Illinois to meet us) and I had a meet, greet and eat. Some curves and beautiful scenery.

After this run, I knew I wasn’t ready for the Dragon. ALF on the other hand, knew he was ready. I know the Burgman would have been more than capable of all the curves. Having the manual shift on the 650 would have slain the Dragon with no problem. I just feel I wasn’t ready so I opted not to attend. I would have loved to have meet all the riders I have been sharing videos with over the past year. You just got to know your skill level and limitations. You ask yourself ” When will I know?” In my case, you’ll know. You have to be Comforable and Cautious.

So the moral of this story is know your limitations. Step out of your comfort zone a little bit when your ready and above all…………

Be Safe and enjoy the ride!

Dave Neatherton
The Smyrna Cowboy

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©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

Thank goodness Scootergirl from the forum lives only an hour away and was brave enough to let me borrow her 2007 Burgman 400 for a backroads test ride. And that was a perfect way to compare the scooter. I rode an hour on my 650 Executive, jumped off, got on Robin’s 400 and took a long ride on it and then jumped back on my 650 for another hour home.

So what scooters did I compare? Robin has a 2007 stock Burgman 400 and I have a 2008 Burgman 650 Executive with a Clearview screen. Plus, Robin’s has this amazing beaded seat thing cover that makes her seat really plush. We’ll have to get more details about that for sure.

The very first thing I noticed was when I pulled up into Robin’s driveway. It had a slight downward angle and when I pulled up next to where her scooter was parked and jumped off mine it started to roll forward and fall even though it was on the side stand. Apparently the 650 was heavier enough that the slight incline made a big difference. After doing the silly ‘it’s falling over I’m trying to save it’ dance I finally got it firmly planted with the parking brake. Thank you Suzuki for the parking brake. And thank you Robin for letting me take your scooter out right after I nearly planted mine in your driveway. Brave woman.

Now, before I begin this comparison let me offer the following disclaimer. This was just my experience and these are just my opinions. This is not a white coated scientist dyno test. It is just a Burgman rider out riding another Burgman and offering impressions and comments. I encourage anyone that has anything to add or a different opinion to post it in the comments section at the end of this article.

As for cosmetic differences I’ll let the pictures show you all of that. The operational differences were very apparent and while the two scooters are very different in some ways, those differences are not necessarily bad things.

Burgman 400, Left & Burgman 650 Exec, Right

Burgman 650 Exec, Left & Burgman 400, Right

What struck me immediately when I stepped onto the Burgman 400 was how much lighter it is. It was so easy to take off the side stand and manhandle compared to the 650. It was also apparent when I sat on that damn comfortable beaded seat that the distance from the seat to the ground on the 400 was shorter than on the 650.

The first impression when I fired up the 400 was how much more scooter like the engine sounded and felt. It was as noticeable like the difference between a four cylinder car engine and an eight cylinder car engine. It’s not that the Burgman 400 is rough, just different. When giving it gas from a standing start it also sounds more like a scooter and takes a bit longer to get going and get up to speed. And let me assure you that the 400 has plenty of power once you get it going at a steady pace and runs smooth and fast. The big difference between the 400 and 650 with power appears to be that the 650 is faster off the line, faster acceleration and more top end speed. The 400 meets its maximum at just above highway speeds without any reserve for a bit more power. On my 650 I can pass anything traveling less than 100 mph or so, with ease.

Handling on the 400 was super fine. No problems at all. It is easy to lean and handle on the road. The most noticeable differences while cruising were the following items.

• It might just be purely personal preference but I do think the Burgman 650 mirrors are more helpful than the 400 mirrors. The 650 mirrors are in a very good and comfortable position when riding and even though they seem like they’d be too low they do give you a very broad view of the road. Maybe it was just esthetics but the mirrors on stalks on the 400 would not be my first choice.
• My Burgman 650 has ABS, the 400 does not. And while you could clamp on the binders on the 400 and bring it to a stop, the braking on the 650 Executive feels much more solid and strong. That is not to say that the braking on the 400 isn’t adequate, it feels perfectly adequate. What I noticed most was that on the 650 with ABS that when I apply the brakes, I get braking RIGHT NOW! And on the 400 I got hard braking but with a less of a massive grip.
• The weight difference was apparent to me on the twisty roads. On my 650 when I rock it back and forth in the turns it feels more definitive. The 400 was easy to handle but just didn’t give me the same sort of solid rider feedback. It is obviously a feeling that is hard to put into words but for an experienced motorcycle rider the weight feels like an advantage in the fast sweeping turns. But that extra weight, not properly handled, could probably get a new rider in more trouble.
• I also love the analogue fuel gauge on the 400 rather than the digital four bar gauge on my 650. In fact I think the fuel and temp gauges on the 650 are a disappointment and I’d just like more information than the bars on the 650 give me.
• On the 400 the disappointment was the initial power and scooterness of the engine when starting to get going. But if you are buying a scooter, that would not be a negative factor at all. And this is where I think the major difference is between the Burgman 400 and the Burgman 650. The Burgman 400 feels, in my opinion, like a powerful scooter and the Burgman 650 feels and handles more like a powerful motorcycle.

Now, that doesn’t mean that both don’t have a perfect place in different situations. With the better fuel milage that the Burgman 400 gets and it’s light weight I’d prefer the Burgman 400 for a daily commute in traffic, run to the store or a lot of riding in an urban area. I also think that anyone that does not have experience riding a motorcycle should start with the 400, not because it is inferior or a starter scooter but simply because the reduction in weight and less rocket start power can make it a safer maxiscooter to start with.

I would strongly suggest that before anyone buys a Burgman 650 that they have completed an approved motorcycle safety class and has previous motorcycle riding experience or can ride with a buddy to get experience. Call it what you want, the Burgman 650 Executive, for all intents and purposes, is a motorcycle with a step through frame.

Both the Burgman 400 and 650 can travel a long distance and I could see myself easily able to ride cross country on the Burgman 400. Both are fine machines, great maxiscooters and perfect fit for that special someone.

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

But what really got my attention was his Burgman setup. You see, Jake pulls a trailer with not your ordinary load of underwear and overpacked luggage. Here is what Jake is towing with his Burgman 650:

• Trailer weighing 80 kgs (176 lbs)
• Computers
• 3 gallon gerry can
• 200 amp hr battery pack
• Portable stove
• Folding chair (padded)
• Clothes
• Spare helmets
• Winter and wet weather gear
• Thermos and food
• TV and DVD Player

Aussie Burgman Loaded For The Road

“I usually get between 320 to 350 kms (200 miles) per tank without the trailer and approx 250 to 275 kms (155 miles) with the trailer fully laden. I don’t travel light when I ride in the outback.

When riding at speed the trailer is not a problem, but around traffic you can feel it because of the lack of normal acceleration.”

You can see more of Jake’s (pegleg on the forum) pictures online here.

If you have a Burgman photo and story to share, you can contribute it here.

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

Now eBay can be a magical place to find deals and items at great prices. And you can regularly find Suzuki Burgman scooters for sale on eBay. Although I’ve noticed lately that the number of Burgman scooters for sale is smaller than it used to be. Now that’s understandable. After all, who would want to sell one if they didn’t have to?

As far as I’m concerned the biggest concerns about buying a Suzuki Burgman scooter on eBay are:

1. Mechanical & Cosmetic Condition As Described
2. A Very Safe and Fair Exchange of Cash and Scooter
3. Delivery

All of these issues can be easily overcome and I suggest that you never purchase a Burgman scooter on eBay without following the advice below. let’s call it the Steve Rhode BurgmanRiders.com plan. I like the way that sounds!

This is the process that I use and it would be very hard to get royally screwed if you adopt this approach. With a good insurance policy you exchange money for protection. And when buying a scooter or motorcycle on eBay you can essentially do the same thing. If you have found a Burgman scooter that you want to purchase and you have looked it over online and it seems like the one for you then follow these two steps.

1. Find the Nearest Suzuki Dealer – Call the service shop and ask to speak to the service manager. Explain to them that you are purchasing a Burgman scooter long distance and you would like to pay them to look the scooter over and give you a report on its condition. Here is the most important part, ask the service manager to agree to not release the scooter without your permission and that you will make arrangements for it to be picked up by a transport company from them following the completion of the sale. You can find the nearest Suzuki dealer to the seller, online.
2. Contact the Seller Before the End of the Sale – Any reasonable seller will be willing to allow you to have the scooter looked over by the dealer service shop following your winning bid. Just explain that since you are long distance you want to make sure that the scooter is in good shape and as listed before you transfer the funds. If everything is as stated in the auction, the seller can deliver the title to the dealer for them to hold until you transfer the money to the seller. This will ease the mind of the seller.

Your insurance premium here is that you will need to pay the dealer for their assistance in making this safe transaction. There is a cost to do this but it is usually less than $150 more than the mechanical review by the dealer service shop.

If everything looks good and the dealer gives you a clean bill of health you can ask the seller to deliver the title to the dealer and once the dealer confirms they have the title, ask them to fax it to you so you can make sure the title is in order for a smooth transfer to you. Next, transfer the money to the seller, I prefer to do this via a wire transfer for one primary reason. A wire transfer is a same day transfer of funds from your bank to the bank of the seller. The funds are guaranteed and good on arrival. This is a bonus inducement for you to offer to the seller to ask them to participate with this process.

I don’t like to ship the title with the scooter or motorcycle so I ask the dealer to express mail me the title separately from the scooter. The last thing I want is a stranger with both the scooter and title in their hands. This might be a bit of overkill here but this is why this process is about as safe as it can be for a long distance purchase.

There are extra costs for this approach to safely buying a motorcycle or scooter long distance. Extra costs will be:

• Service visit to look scooter over.
• Dealer service to handle safe transfer.
• Cost of wire transfer of funds.
• Cost to express mail title.

But like I said, all of this is your insurance to protect you from getting burned by a seller you don’t know, taking your money and running. Sadly it has happened before and it will happen again.

The last step of this process is to make arrangements for either yourself or a professional motorcycle transfer company to pick up the scooter from the dealer and deliver it to you. Again there is a charge for this service but it can be cheaper than flying across country to ride an unfamiliar scooter home. Also, professional transporters are bonded and insured to protect you and the scooter in transit.

Here are a few places that advertise motorcycle shipping online that you might want to look at.

• Freight Center
• Federal Motorcycle Transport
• Haul Bikes

I’ve used Federal a couple of times and they always did a very prompt and professional job. The motorcycle was picked up and arrived as promised and I could track it on its journey as well. Now that doesn’t mean that the others don’t look interesting as well. Use who you want to. It looks like both Haul Bikes and Federal charge about the same rate to ship a scooter across country.

To give you an approximate idea of what it would cost to ship your scooter cross country, it looks like around $620 is the average charge.

Secret: If you want to save some money, you can ask for a custom shipping quote from the eBay item page for the specific scooter. Federal has a relationship with eBay for motorcycle and scooter shipping and you’ll get a cheaper price asking for a quote through the scooter auction page on eBay.

Just click on the shipping tab on the scooter auction page on eBay and press the “Get Custom Quotes” button, as shown below.

Discounted Scooter Shipping Quote

When I started this article I said that my major concerns when buying a Burgman scooter long distance were:

1. Mechanical & Cosmetic Condition As Described
2. A Very Safe and Fair Exchange of Cash and Scooter
3. Delivery

By using this approach you can significantly minimize your risks when buying a Suzuki Burgman scooter or any motorcycle on eBay long distance. Using the dealer approach you can get an independent assessment of the condition of the scooter and match it up with the auction listing to see if they synch up. If the scooter isn’t as described the only thing you’ve lost is the service cost of the dealer to look it over. Now that’s cheap protection to avoid getting a bad scooter.

Using this approach you’ll also be able to exchange scooter, title and money using the dealer as an escrow agent and delivery can be a cinch using a professional transport company.

Let Me Head Off Some Questions At The Pass

Steve, doesn’t this process make purchasing the Burgman more expensive?

Yes it does but it makes it safer and less risky. Would you rather invest some money in safety and connivence or risk losing all your money by getting screwed?

Steve, how do I know the dealer isn’t going to screw me over?

The cost of your service is so insignificant in the grand scheme of the dealer’s income that it is illogical a dealer would risk their name and reputation by screwing you over a $150 tab. This is why I also suggest a Suzuki dealer, if you have any issues, you can escalate it through Suzuki. But you won’t have any issues.

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

This is the first in what I hope is an ongoing series of motorcycle and scooter safety articles from Joe Aiello who is the State Administrator of the New York State Motorcycle Safety Program. If you have suggestions for topics to be covered in upcoming articles, please leave them in the comments section below. — Steve

If there was one subject that is sure to spark controversy in the motorcycling world, hands down that subject would have to revolve around helmets. Just simply mention helmet laws or helmet use and you will be sure to attract individuals from both sides of the fence. Armed with their own “facts”, observations, experiences and beliefs, proponents of both points of view will deluge anyone within earshot in an attempt to convince them that their point of view is the right point of view. You can (and most probably will) get quite the headache trying to respectfully listen to both sides when this happens.

The point of this article is not to discuss the issues of helmet laws or whether such laws are proper. There is a time and a place for those articles and arguments.

What I will say is that from my own personal experience, I have decided to always wear a helmet. Of course, the first question one may ask is, “Well, what makes you an expert in this field?” Well, I’m glad you asked!

Aside from administering a state-wide motorcycle safety program, I am also a certified MSF RiderCoach, a NYS Motorcycle Safety Instructor, a former EMT, an amateur racer (in my younger days) and I presently put about 15,000 miles a year on motorcycles. Most of that mileage is driving 40-miles (each way) into Manhattan during rush hour traffic.

‘Nuff said?

Steve at BurgmanRiders.com was good enough to contact me regarding some safety articles for his website. Steve asked that the first of these articles, deal with helmet specific issues. So without further ado…let’s get right into it!

When choosing a helmet, a rider will immediately find that it is easy to get overwhelmed quite quickly with the (literally) thousands of choices available. Styles, colors, ratings, certifications…it all becomes white-noise to the average person quite easily! Let’s take a moment to review the basic principles of helmet design.

First and foremost, when choosing a helmet, you have to ensure that your helmet meets DOT standards. Novelty helmets are not helmets. Novelty helmets are little more than hats…or as I like to call them, “Plastic Yarmulkes”. A DOT certification indicates that the helmet was submitted to the DOT for testing. The things that are tested are how much energy the helmet transfers to the head during an impact and the ability of the retention system (the chin-strap and buckle) to remain intact when force is applied. In this case, understand that for all intents and purposes, one DOT-approved helmet will offer the same protection as another DOT-approved helmet.

Snell ratings for helmets are done independently of DOT. Snell is not a federal rating and as such, a Snell rating does not determine if the helmet is legal for use in the US. Snell ratings differ from DOT ratings in that they test the impact absorption characteristics of helmets by subjecting them to multiple, smaller impacts in the same area as opposed to the one large impact. There are some other differences but what you need to know is that DOT is the standard used by the government and therefore is the standard that determines the legal status of street use for the helmet. The good news is that I am not aware of Snell-only certified helmets being offered in the US…so think of this rating as something extra.

What to look for in a helmet:

When choosing a helmet, you will see that there are 4 main parts that must be considered.

• The first (and most obvious) is the outer shell. This is designed to protect against penetrating objects, to keep the shape of the helmet and, of course, is the part that is painted.
• The second is the impact liner. The impact liner is inside of the entire helmet and is made of a material called Expanded Polystyrene (or “EPS” for short). This is a substance very similar to Styrofoam and is designed to crush (and subsequently be destroyed) when an impact takes place. Since EPS is not very soft and doesn’t absorb sweat, it isn’t very comfortable…which is why the third part, the comfort liner, is built into the design.
• The comfort liner is made up of soft material and padding to make the helmet more comfortable and fit your head better.
• The final part of the helmet is the retention system. This is more commonly referred to as the chin-strap and buckle. There are different designs (some use the standard D-Rings while other use quick release type buckles) but they all serve the exact same purpose: To secure the helmet to your head and ensure that it stays there in the event of a crash.

With the ratings and parts of the helmet understood, let’s take a look at the next issue: the style of helmet. Presently you have 4 choices of helmets to choose from.

• The Full-Face Helmet

  This helmet is a helmet that (go figure) covers your entire head and face. With the exception of off-road (motocross) which are designed to work with goggles, most full-face street helmets also have a face shield built into them. This is important because the face shield serves as acceptable eye protection as it is designed to be shatterproof and impact resistant. Another factor to consider is that during highway crash investigations, it was found that the chin bar of the helmet received impacts around 20% of the time.

• The ¾ Open Face Helmet

  A ¾ helmet has no chin bar in the design, though the helmet will cover the sides of your face. In many cases, ¾ helmets can also have a face shield attached that can pivot up and out of your field of view. Note that in the absence of a face shield, it is absolutely critical (and in many states, the law) that you wear approved motorcycle eye protection. Since many of you reading this are Burgman pilots (yeah, the website address gave that away…you can’t get anything past me I tell ya!), you may believe that your windscreen provides the necessary eye protection. This is absolutely NOT the case and your windscreen is not, and never was designed to be, a replacement for eye protection.

• The ½ Helmet

  Sometimes referred to as the “Shorty” or the “Beanie”, the ½ helmet is designed to only cover the top portion of your head, leaving the sides of your face and your ears exposed. While it is the smallest, lightest and (from a temperature, not a status standpoint) the coolest helmet, it also affords the least amount of coverage and protection. Like the ¾, you must also wear eye protection if using this type of helmet.

• The Modular/Flip-Up Helmet

  This is a design that has been getting more and more popular with riders. It is essentially a Full Face helmet that is designed to have the entire chin bar assembly rotate up away from your face. Many people prefer this type of helmet because it protects like a Full Face, yet allows you to rotate it up to talk with people or take a drink or even put on eyeglasses easier. While a marvelous design, there are some points that you need to look at. The first is that there is no standard that I know of that tests the retention value of the flip-up chin bar. So, you need to look at the mechanism to ensure that it is a sturdy construction. In this case, the beefier (and more metallic) the better. The second point is that there are some manufacturers that don’t include EPS in the chin bars of flip-up helmets. While these will protect you better than nothing, they will not be as good as those with EPS in the chin bar. Just something you need to look for and consider. Finally, these types of helmets are designed to be put on and off with the chin bar in the up position (not in the down and locked position). Again, not a big deal, but something you need to remember, especially if you are used to full face helmets. Failure to do so will result in a painful episode with your nose (don’t ask how I know this…).

So, the next question you may have is: “What is the difference between a $70 helmet and a $1,000 helmet?” Well, in terms of safety and usability, not much. The price differences are normally attributed to cosmetics (such as colors and/or graphics), weight and comfort. More expensive helmets may use shells made of more exotic materials (like Kevlar, carbon fiber, etc.) to reduce their weight and make them more comfortable. Additionally, the more expensive helmet may have a better comfort liner and padding. Of course, they could be painted in special paints (like metal flake) or have better graphics which will add to the cost. Here’s something to consider, look at any model of helmet made by a company and you will see that the “special” colors are more expensive than the “standard” colors for the exact same model helmet. Your cash…your choice.

One important factor you must be made aware of is that a helmet is designed for only ONE IMPACT. Yes, you read that right…like an airbag or a bullet-proof vest, a helmet is only good for that one time and then must be replaced. Even if there is very little or no visible damage, the helmet must be inspected and (most likely) replaced. The reason is that the damage is done to the EPS, which is very hard to detect and it is the EPS that actually protects you from the impact. If you subject the helmet to any hard impact (and this includes dropping it onto a hard surface) then this helmet must be either sent back to the manufacturer for inspection or simply replaced immediately.

“A good general rule-of-thumb is that you should replace your helmet every 5 years or so.”

The last point about helmets is that they still have a finite service life regardless if they were never subjected to an impact. A good general rule-of-thumb is that you should replace your helmet every 5 years or so. The reason is that the sweat from your head eventually will damage the EPS liner in the helmet. Have you ever had a Styrofoam cooler that has been out in the sun for too long or has been sitting in a garage for a few years? Notice how it gets very brittle over time and begins to break apart? Well, the same will eventually happen to your liner and it won’t be able to provide the same protection after time. So, consider that your helmet should be used for 5 years or less and you will probably avoid the chance of wearing a helmet that may not have its full protective value.

The final point I want to mention is how to pick the helmet that is right for you. In this case, the only way for you to tell is to actually go to a store/dealership and try one on. Though I have used mail order and internet distributors for a number of motorcycle related items, this should not be the case with a helmet. Helmet manufacturers all use different head-forms when designing their helmets. Some manufactures fit people with oval-shaped heads better while others are more suited for rounder heads. The only way to tell which is right for you is to put on the helmet and wear it for a while. A helmet that doesn’t fit well is extremely dangerous because pinching and pressure points can distract you so much that you will be at severe risk while riding. Ever have a pebble in your shoe? Remember how it gets to the point that you no longer can think of anything else other than removing that pebble? The same can (and will) happen with an ill-fitting helmet. That is not the position you want to be in while riding in traffic.

When trying on a new helmet, take special notice of the pressure it places on your temples and your forehead. If you feel significant pressure on these points when you first put on the helmet, you can expect that to turn into excruciating pain after an hour or so. Also, when checking for a correct fit, make sure that you can’t remove the helmet once it is on and the chin strap secured by attempting to roll it forwards or backwards off of your head. Additionally, when properly worn, the helmet should not be able to turn on your head from side to side. Look in a mirror and see if the liner grips your skin when you try to move the helmet around.

Hopefully you found this information informative. We will try to tackle some other subjects in the future.

Ride safe and ride often!

-Joe

Photo by Teosaurio

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

BurgmanRiders.com Vinyl Safety Sticker

I wanted to let you know that the stickers are delivered with care to the post office for mailing on my Burgman.

Burgman Delivered Stickers

I figure it gives them just a bit more Burgman mojo and besides, it gives me a great excuse to go riding at least once a day. Hey, anybody could leave them in the mailbox for the postal carrier to pickup, but these cool stickers deserve to be Burgman delivered.

If you would like to get some of these reflective safety stickers before they run out, order soon. I will not be reprinting these and when they are gone, they are gone.

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.