Gee, thanks Steve. How about next time you give me another easy request? Like, have me give the correct answer to the question, “Do these pants make me look fat?” [Editor: Yes]

Well, I think that there are really two issues at hand here. The first issue is when you should stop riding on a temporary basis. The second (and less attractive subject) is, when you should hang up the helmet for good. While I was pondering this, I had an epiphany: The answer to both of these questions is derived from exactly the same issues. The very same points that will temporarily stop you from riding can end up stopping your riding career permanently. But, I’m getting ahead of myself. Let’s first look at the factors concerning riding.

When you break it down, there are really only two factors that will dictate your ability to ride. These are your physical ability and your mental ability. When asked which is more important, most people will say they believe that the physical ability is more important than mental ability. Unfortunately, nothing could be further from the truth. Without a doubt, your mental ability is the most important factor and, ironically enough, is the toughest factor for you accurately gauge.

When evaluating your physical condition, it is pretty obvious if you are unable to safely operate a motorcycle or scooter. You could have a problem resulting from injury, disability or even physical stature. Regardless, you know that if you can’t stand the machine upright, work the controls with both hands and both feet or see where you are going, making the decision to stop riding is pretty easy and very obvious. How long you stop will be dictated by the length of time needed to overcome the physical limitation. In some cases, it can be minutes or hours. In other cases, it can be permanent.

The real problem is when you are dealing with the mental abilities of the rider. A great man (and the person who trained me) once said, “Motorcycling is 90% mental and 10% physical”. This was one of those lines that you accept at face value when you hear it…but once you start really thinking and evaluating it, you realize just how insightful and true it is. When you really consider it, your mental ability drives most of your physical ability. What we physically do while we are riding is mostly done without conscious thought.

The repetitive actions eventually become what instructors define as “muscle memory”. You really aren’t consciously evaluating exactly what you are doing most of the time. Do you want proof? OK, tell me exactly how far (in specific measurements) you need to squeeze the brake lever(s) to come to a stop from 40-mph. Tell me why people are able to turn at speed when they might not even know what counter-steering” is (and in some cases, actually deny that it occurs). Tell me how much throttle you need to roll on to attain 30-mph from a stop.

The point is that you can’t equate these things because you don’t measure them and you don’t think about them in these terms. This is the reason why professional training is so important. Since you don’t measure these things or even think about them (and in an emergency, you don’t have the time at all!), then you need to know that your body and your reflexes are up to the task. The only way to do this is with practice with a qualified and certified professional who will evaluate your performance and provide you with tips and corrections along the way.

Almost all physical abilities are driven by your mental abilities. You can have the world’s greatest eyesight, but it is useless if you aren’t scanning actively and correctly. You can have superhuman reflexes, but they will have no benefit if you just grab at the controls. You can have incredible strength, but it has no value without precision and coordination. All of these physical things are useless without skills and skills are something that is learned. You cannot learn new skills or utilize current skills if you are not mentally up to the task. There are machine designs and even prosthetics that can help you overcome some physical limitations and allow you to ride reasonably safely. There are no prosthetics for the mind.

So, getting back to the original question, “When do you stop riding?” Let’s review the factors that should dictate when you roll to a stop and drop the sidestand.

Hungry

If you are anything like 99% of the population, you know that there is always room for dessert! That being said, we are not talking about when you could have something to eat. We are talking about when you MUST have something to eat. Being hungry is distracting at best and can actually make you sluggish or weak or light-headed at worst. Stop and get something to eat and recharge.

Thirsty

It goes beyond just feeling thirsty. You will shed an enormous amount of fluids when riding (especially in hot weather). You might not even realize you have lost so much fluid until you start experiencing life-threatening issues. A good rule of thumb is you should continue to drink until you go to the bathroom regularly. This of course, brings us to our next point…

Bathroom

We all experienced the pain and the cramping so I don’t think I need to elaborate! Suffice to say, you are more inclined to do foolish and risky things when your stomach is bloated and in knots!

Alcohol

Drinking and riding don’t mix. I’m sure you all have heard this before. However, what you probably haven’t heard is the exact reasons why. Alcohol will affect three things right from the start. First, it will affect your vision. Second, it will affect your motor skills. Third, and this is the real problem, it affects your judgment. This means that the third factor will make you unaware of the first two factors. Since I’ve already stated that motorcycling is 90% mental and that your mental ability drives most of your physical abilities, impairing that ability is a recipe for disaster.

Tired

“Oh, I just have a few miles more to go. I just can’t wait to get home!”

Sound familiar? Yes, we have all done it and yes, we probably will do it again. However, riding while tired has so many risks for obvious reasons. Try and resist the urge to keep pressing on and find a place to pull over for a bit.

Cold

The cooler weather can be a motorcyclist’s best friend. However, when the temperature really begins to drop, we are always the first ones to know it! Cold weather riding is perfectly safe if you are dressed for it and trained for the unique dangers. Unfortunately (and regardless of gear), there can be times that the chill just continues to seep in despite our best efforts. Cold weather will affect you both mentally and physically.

The mental part is that when you are cold, you are slower to react and slower to perceive threats. The physical part comes from how the body deals with the cold. Your extremities will get reduced blood flow as your body attempts to keep the heat in your core (torso). This means that you will lose feeling in your extremities and, in some cases, the ability to use them.

Speaking from personal experience, there was a time that I was very cold while riding and when I went to use the front brake, I found that my right hand just wouldn’t obey my commands. I was lucky in that I was on the highway alone and was only looking to slow down for my exit. In this case, I missed the exit and learned a lesson. It could easily have been another outcome if I had to perform an emergency maneuver.

Angry

Just had a fight with your spouse or significant other? Mad at the boss because of something at the office? Whatever the reason, driving while angry is something you want to avoid at all costs. Take it from a guy who rides in NYC…you can’t let yourself fall into the trap of riding while angry or getting angry while riding. Much like alcohol, as our anger level rises, our judgment and reasoning diminishes. You are more inclined to do risky (or even outlandish) things when you get mad and frustrated enough.

Rain

While it can be a nuisance…I find that a trained rider will have no problem operating their machine in the rain as long as extra care is given to the situation. However, when it first begins to rain, you should not attempt to ride. Oil, anti-freeze, diesel and a litany of other really slippery substances will rise to the road surface when it first begins to rain. Remember that oil and oil-based materials are lighter than water. So, whatever is embedded in the road surface will be forced to rise to the surface when it begins to rain. The good news is that the characteristics that make them rise to the surface also work to clean them off the surface in a short time. So, if you are caught in a rain that is just beginning, find a place to pull over for a little while until the rain has a chance to wash the surface free of the slippery stuff.

Finally, if at all possible, take extra care while riding at dawn or dusk. While you may have excellent eyesight, a significant portion of the population encounters a visual problem adjusting to these conditions. As any rider can attest to…it is like we are invisible out there on the best of occasions. During dawn and dusk, we are even MORE invisible!

Determining when you should stop riding is really a matter or understanding and accepting the conditions you are presented with. How long it lasts is entirely up to when you can manage these situations and conditions. It may be a few minutes or it may be a few hours. It may end up being days, weeks, months or even years. The fact remains that it all depends on your physical ability and your mental abilities.

Ride often and ride safe!

-Joe

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

Funny stuff and something many of us aspire to. However, despite the fact that I really want to be a hardcore rider all the time, reality dictates that sometimes you may have to trailer your machine. It may be for repairs, it may be as the result of a move or it may be because you want it along on a large family trip. The fact is that for one reason or another, you will probably be faced with this situation sometime down the road. The problem is, most of us aren’t loadmasters for the Air Force and don’t have the experience with properly securing a load or knowing what equipment to use. Hopefully, this article will help shed some light on the Do’s and Don’ts of using a trailer.

First, you have to decide how you are going to transport your machine. Some will consider loading it into the bed of a pickup, some will load it inside of a cargo van and some will use a towed trailer. So, the first two things you need to evaluate are what sort of equipment is available to you and how much help you will have. Let’s rundown the choices:

The Pickup Truck Bed

If you have a load of friends who regularly lift concrete slabs for fun, then loading your machine into the bed of a pickup truck is not a problem. For the rest of us mere mortals, we will probably have to use a ramp of some sort. There are commercially available ramps that are made for just this purpose. Some of them even fold up for transport and others mount to the open edge of the bed door to help secure the load. The thing to remember is that this is not a good choice if you will be loading or unloading the machine by yourself. You may also be tempted to ride the machine up or down the ramp. Again, this is a bad idea as the ramp surface will be at a pretty steep angle and it doesn’t have a lot of traction. This means that the bike could slip sideways and, if you are on it, will end up falling on top of you. The proper way to load a machine up a ramp is for one person to stand to the middle of the left (sidestand) side, one person to stand towards the back of the right side (near the rear wheel) and if there is a third person, have them stand to the rear of the machine. This is the safest and easiest way to load and unload the machine.

Again, please do not do this by yourself and please do not attempt to ride the machine on or off the ramp.

The Cargo Van

Several years ago, there were a lot more cargo vans on the road. Now, the mini-van has pretty much taken the place of this vehicle. However, if you do have a cargo van (or access to one), it can be a very capable transport device for your machine. The good news is that it has a lower deck which (while still needing a small ramp) makes for easier loading and unloading and it can be done with one or two people. The bad news is that the bike will be in an enclosed area where gas and oil can leak and there is usually a lack of hard tie-down points on the inside of a van. Remember that you should always drive the van with the windows open to vent out any gasses from the passenger area. This is especially a factor if you are transporting a damaged bike.

The Towed Trailer

This happens to be my preferred method of transporting a bike (next to riding it of course!). Trailers are easy to load and unload (even by yourself), keeps your bike from taking up cargo room, have built in tie-down points and can be towed by most vehicles on the road.

Now, with trailers, you essentially have two choices. You can either rent a trailer or purchase one. Personally, I find that renting a U-Haul trailer is my best option as I don’t have a lot of space to store it when not in use. If you are going to rent a U-Haul, then make sure you get the 5’ X 9’ Ramp Trailer. This trailer has a large, drop-down ramp in the back and is large enough to carry any bike. I have personally loaded everything from Gold Wings, ST-1300’s, Ducati’s and scooters by myself with no problem whatsoever. Remember that if you are renting a trailer, do not rent an enclosed trailer to transport your machine. You must rent an open trailer for this purpose. The reason for this is that enclosed rental trailers are designed for transporting household items, not vehicles. They are not properly vented to expel gasses from volatile fluids (like gasoline) and in many cases, the rental company has a policy against transport of vehicles in enclosed trailers. This means that you will be voiding your contract (and in most cases, your insurance) if you choose to ignore these warnings.

Motorcycle in Approved Enclosed Trailer

If you are going to borrow or purchase an enclosed trailer designed for transporting vehicles, then you must ensure that the trailer is properly vented. The thing to look for is that the trailer has vents on the roof and near the floor. Remember that gasoline vapors are heavier than air and can only vent out near the bottom. The top vents are designed to let air in while the bottom vents are there to let the vapors out.

The pros and cons of open and closed trailers are as follows:

Open Pros:

• Easy to load

• Easy to move around in for securing the load
• Easy to monitor the load while driving
• Tend to be lighter and less resistant to swaying in the wind.
• Usually less expensive
• No buildup of dangerous vapors or fumes

Open Cons:

• The load is exposed to the weather.

• You can’t include other items that are susceptible to the weather
• Less security
• Smaller size makes it more difficult to maneuver when backing up

Closed Pros:

• Better security

• The load and other items are not exposed to the weather
• More visibility and larger size makes it more maneuverable when backing up

Closed Cons:

• More difficult to move around inside around the bike

• You cannot monitor your load unless you stop and open the trailer
• More susceptible to wind gusts and swaying
• Usually more expensive
• Improper venting could cause a dangerous buildup of fumes and vapors

Securing the Load

Regardless of the type of transport you choose, the most important part is properly securing your machine. To do this correctly, you need nylon tie-down straps. Personally, I prefer the ratcheting type of straps over the friction straps since they do a better job of cinching tight. If you are using ratcheting straps, care must be used to ensure you don’t over tighten and cause damage to your machine.

Properly Securing Bike With Straps

The things to remember about strapping down your machine are:

1. You must use enough straps

2. You must identify proper hard-points on the machine and the trailer
3. You must compress the suspension of the bike at least 1 to 2 inches
4. Do not secure the bike on the centerstand.

You will need to use a minimum of two straps when securing your machine. These straps should be connected to the clamp/brace that is located high on your front forks. With some machines that have solid steel bars for handlebars, you can secure the straps to the bars themselves, however many new machines (including your Burgman) have modular handgrips that do not have the strength to support the tie-down straps.

If you are loading and unloading with a friend and you can secure the bike with the front wheel braced straight against the front of the trailer/pickup bed, then you can elect to stand the bike up on its own while a friend tightens the front straps and compresses the suspension. You can also do this while the bike is on the sidestand. Either way is fine but with the bike on the sidestand, it is easier to remove the straps by yourself. Just remember to loosen the right-hand straps first!

If you cannot brace the front tire against something, then you will need at least four straps. First, secure two straps to the rear of the machine (not to the wheels, it has to be to the body for proper suspension compression) and then to the bed of the vehicle. Cinch up these straps until they are just snug. Then secure the front straps (again with the front wheel straight) and begin to tighten until the suspension compresses. Then go back to the rear straps and tighten them a bit more. Again, this will work with or without the machine resting on the sidestand.

The one thing to remember is that you can never (and I mean NEVER) attempt to secure and transport the bike while it is on the centerstand! This is the absolute worst thing you can do because you can’t get both tires in contact with the ground and you can’t effectively compress the entire suspension. It is pretty much certain that one hard bump or one hard turn and your bike will end up on it’s side.

If you don’t understand why this is a terrible idea, think of a broomstick. If you stand it upright with the end on the floor, no matter how much downward pressure you apply, a small amount of sideways force will cause it to slide outwards. As a matter of fact, the more downward pressure you apply, the easier it will slide out with moderate sideways pressure.

Another point about securing your machine in a trailer is that you should remember to remove any electronic toll pass device (Like “EZ-Pass”) from the bike. If you forget to do this, then you will be paying the toll twice.

Finally, remember that regardless if you are using a pickup/van or a trailer, the vehicle will perform differently when loaded or towing. Please use extra care when operating the vehicle, reduce your speed and increase your following distance to compensate for the additional weight and change in balance.

Hopefully these tips will help you if you find the need to safely transport your machine. Remember that regardless of the tips and the procedures, nothing should trump common sense.

Ride safe and ride often!

-Joe

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

In the case of this website, Steve asked everyone to post any suggestions you have for articles and Robin “ScooterGirl” Gray asked about safely extended ride for touring purposes. Well Robin, ask and you shall receive! (Well, in this one specific case anyway…)

Touring can be one of the greatest events you can do on a motorcycle or scooter. Of course, it is only because of the development of big machines like the Burgman that I can even include scooters in that sentence! Yes, you could have toured on scooters 20 years ago…for that matter, you could also tour on roller skates and pogo sticks. Just because you could do it doesn’t mean that you should do it! However, the fact is that the Burgman and other large displacement scooters can be excellent and very capable touring machines. Extending the ride should equate to extending the fun, though sadly, that is not always the case if you aren’t ready or prepared.

Loaded Scooter

What is Touring?

First let’s try to define what touring is. Now, this is really the hard part because touring means different things to different people. My idea of an extended ride might include a thousand miles over a long weekend. Ask an “Iron-Butt” rider, and you are talking a thousand miles a day for over a week! A new rider might think that 200 miles is a long stretch. OK…let’s say that distance is very subjective!

Since we can’t easily describe distance, perhaps we can agree on time. So, the question is, does time involved in riding have anything to do with touring? Again, there isn’t just one answer here. For many of you, if I mention a 2-hour ride, you would probably imagine a long jaunt into the country or even another state. For me…well…2 hours is what it takes me to commute 40 miles into work every day. In each direction that is. Sadly, no, I’m not kidding. OK, time is not a good defining factor either I guess.

Fine, we can’t define it by distance or time, but can we define touring by stating that you will have a specific destination? Well…um…no, you can’t. Couldn’t you be touring on a series of long, scenic roads with no particular place to go? OK, I’m getting a little frustrated here! Geez, thanks a lot, Robin!

Actually, I’m really not frustrated at all. Believe it or not, I really did define touring. The fact is touring is what you want it to be. It can be best described as a ride designed for pleasure that may or may not have a specific destination and has no specific timeframe. Using this definition, I can put together a list of tips and some bits of information that will apply to any touring you may want to do.

Ride your own ride

Since we already determined that touring is what you want it to be, then the most important thing to remember is the very same thing I teach all students: Ride your own ride. Regardless of if you are carving corners on a country road, commuting into a large city, doing a multi-state ride or going to the store, you need to ride at your own level and within your own limitations. Don’t push yourself to go further or faster just to keep up with friends or a schedule. Riding is supposed to be fun and enjoyable. Unfortunately, that fun can turn into discomfort, pain and even tragedy if you consistently push yourself beyond your limits. Try slowly extending out your ride over time to see what you are comfortable doing. Remember that you should never push right to the limit because your own body and mind could have different thresholds from day to day.

Plan your destination(s)

Yes, I know what you are going to say…”But Joe, you already said that a tour doesn’t have to have a destination!” In the big picture, this is true. However, in reality we still have to plan for things like fuel, bathroom breaks and even the occasional food stop (Ride to Eat, Eat to Ride?). The point is, you should take a look at your proposed route and plan for occasional stops. It is always easier to skip a planned stop if you want to, instead of realizing in the saddle that you really need to stop soon. Of course, in a populated area on a main route, finding a place to stop is pretty easy. This isn’t necessarily the case on some quiet backroad on a Sunday. Start by planning your routes by including stops when you know your tank will be about half full. You can always choose to skip a stop or plan extended stop times on the next ride.

Your stops are also important so you can stay hydrated and stretch your muscles. Especially in the warmer weather, you will lose much more fluids as the result of increased evaporation from the windblast than you would just from walking around. The problem is that you may not be aware of the fluid loss until it is too late. Keep drinking until you need to go to the bathroom.

To GPS or Not GPS?…that is the question

As a self-admitted techno-junkie (Yes, I invented that word!), I love gadgets and technology as much as the next guy. OK, I probably like it a whole lot more than the next 10 guys! That being said, I’ve been using GPS devices for a long time. As a pilot, I was even using GPS in aircraft when the only approved instrument device was the Loran. I love the device and can’t imagine not having one.

So it may come as a surprise to you when I say that you should not rely on the GPS. Aside from the fact that a device malfunction or failure can ruin your trip, a GPS can also distract you. I’m not saying you shouldn’t use one. What I am saying is that you should only use it in conjunction with other means. You should always have maps of the area you intend on riding. I personally prefer plastic coated commercial maps since they are almost indestructible. If you would rather use Mapquest (or some other mapping program), then make sure you put the printouts into a Ziploc bag to protect the paper and ink from any unforeseen soaking. Make sure you review the route over and over so you know ahead of time where you need to go and where you need to turn. Don’t just follow the digital arrow on your GPS.

Here is another tip…always bring a grease pencil with you. There is no ink to dry out, it is easily sharpened and it will make a waterproof route line on a plastic map. Additionally, it can be used to jot down quick notes on one of your rearview mirrors or the corner of your windscreen.

Sometimes extra baggage is a good thing

Knowing what to bring on a tour or a trip is just as important as what not to bring. First, let’s cover the things you absolutely must have with you.

• Owner’s Manual – It goes without saying that this must be with your machine at all times.
• Tool Kit – The tool kits that come with most machines today are pretty lousy quality. My suggestion is that you bring the tools with you to a Sears or other higher end store and buy replacements. I doubt that will end up spending more than $20 to $50 and you will have tools that you can actually use in a pinch.
• Fuses – Know where your fuse box is? Know what types of fuses are in the box? If your answer to either of these questions is, “No”, then stop what you are doing, go to your bike and find out! Then, head to the auto parts store and buy extra fuses.
• Rags – Don’t throw out those old t-shirts. Get a couple of them and wrap them around that new set of tools and fuses you just bought.
• Bottle of Water – It’s not just for drinking anymore. Keep this bottle with you to use in an emergency. You will thank me the first time you need to flush out your eyes in the event an errant bug or bit of dirt finds its way past your visor or glasses.
• Flashlight – Don’t skimp on this item. Buy a sturdy, high-end model that is tough and waterproof. Store the batteries separately.
• Large Zip Ties – Next to duct tape, this is a rider’s best friend. It can help to secure a load, secure a broken piece of bodywork or even secure the aforementioned sturdy flashlight to the fairing when a stone breaks your headlight at night on a deserted road.
• Cell Phone – Yes, you probably already take it everywhere with you. However in this case, taking it with you doesn’t mean keeping it on you. Don’t ride with your cell phone on your person. Secure it somewhere else on the bike. The reason is that if you need it in an emergency (and said emergency involved you falling), then there is a good chance you will destroy the phone in the fall if it is on your belt or in your pocket.
• Tire Gauge – It never ceases to amaze me how many people don’t regularly check their tire pressures. Don’t fall into this trap. Get used to checking you pressure (when the tires are cold) and always do it before a big ride.

If it won’t get you home, leave it alone

If your tour involves a multi-day trip where you will be staying at hotels, motels, bed and breakfasts, etc. then consider shipping all bulky and non-riding items to your destination rather than trying to pack it on your machine. In keeping with this line of thinking, ship all souvenirs, dirty laundry and non-essentials to your home before leaving on your return trip.

If your tour and trip involves camping instead of renting rooms, then consider taking old clothes and underwear that you can use and then throw away. It beats repacking dirty clothes and makes room for things you might pick up along the way.

What to Wear?

We all know the benefits and purpose of safety gear. Well, at least we all should know the benefits and purpose of safety gear (Hmm, another article…?). Anyway, that is not what I am talking about right now. I’m talking about your regular clothes.

What you need to be aware of is that the weather has the nasty tendency of changing quite rapidly and sometimes without warning. Every rider will eventually experience the temperature change just by riding from a sunny area into a shady area (and vice-versa). These temperature changes are even more drastic when you are riding in the spring and the fall as day turns to night. We all have probably heard the term “Wind Chill Factor” that describes the effect wind has in lowering the perceived temperature. Well, a 60 MPH head wind has some significant wind chill factor. In the heat of the summer, this is a welcome relief. When the temperature begins to drop…well…not so much so. Dressing in layers is your best bet when operating a motorcycle or scooter. Aside from it being a very efficient way of retaining body heat, it also allows you to add or remove layers as the temperature changes. Consider taking a few extra layers with you if you plan on riding into the night. If you are leaving at night (or very early in the morning), start out by wearing the layers instead of that one heavy jacket. This way, as the day wears on and gets warmer, you can remove the unnecessary layers and stay comfortable.

Of course, a really nice thing to consider is purchasing electric heated gear. Personally, I can’t say enough good things about the benefits of having a heated vest or jacket liner (Techno-Junkie, remember?). If you never tried one, then I strongly suggest that you do so right away. You will be absolutely amazed at the ease and the comfort of having heated gear and nothing is more effective at getting rid of a chill than simply hitting a button or turning a dial and having instant heat. While you might think that it is only needed in cold weather riding, nothing could be further from the truth. I actually find it more useful when you are subjected to that early morning or early evening chill on an otherwise warm day.

Finally, there is no checklist or planning that will take the place of common sense. Don’t be a slave to schedules and don’t be afraid to make adjustments to your route(s). Ride safe, ride sane and you will begin to see how easy it is to extend your rides out to new areas and new experiences.

Ride safe and ride often!

-Joe

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

Regardless that I was a long-time rider, several years ago I was made aware of something I didn’t know. I found out that there is a problem with Red Light Traffic Sensors recognizing the presence of a motorcycle. I say I was unaware of this because there are no red light sensors in New York City (and all 5 Boroughs). All our lights here are on timers. So having never encountered them on roads where I was the only vehicle (after all, I’m not the only vehicle even in my own driveway!), I had no idea that this problem existed.

However, the problem does exist and it really is an annoyance. As such, the purpose of this article is how to deal with this situation and understand why it happens.

Simply stated, red light sensors are in place in areas where timed traffic lights are not as practical. They are designed to keep the light green in the direction that has the most traffic and to change the light from red to green as the traffic need arises (can you guess why we don’t use them in NYC now?!). Of course the flaw in the system is that the sensor actually has to detect the traffic to work…go figure…

By placing signal-receiving wires in the ground, one of the ways the system detects the presence of a vehicle is by measuring the electromagnetic energy given off by the vehicle. For cars and trucks, this isn’t a problem. However, motorcycles and scooters have much less mass, much less metal in their construction and, consequently, have a lot less electromagnetic energy being radiated. Yes, sorry guys, this is one of those situations where size really does matter. The good news is that since we now understand how the system works, we can now understand how to come up with a solution. I’ll go over some of the options available and comment on what my own experiences have shown.

The first thing you have to know is that this is not an issue when there are other vehicles present with you. Even if those other vehicles are all motorcycles or scooters, enough of them all in the same area are usually sufficient for the sensors to detect and change the light for you. So if you are riding with other traffic, chances are you won’t even realize that there is a problem. But of course, this is not the point of this article and the scenario here is that you are stuck at a red light that won’t change and you need to know what to do about it.

Given that we know how the system operates, there are some things that you can try to get it to work for you. First, you need to increase your electromagnetic output. This can be done one of four ways:

You can rev up your engine a few times. The good news is that this can increase the activity and output from the engine so the sensors can detect you. The bad news is that you need to be in neutral (or have a clutch you can engage) to be useful. Not exactly a great option if you are on a scooter with automatic transmission.

Next, you can try shutting off your machine and starting it back up again while over the sensors in the road. The pulse from the starter and the engine on startup can help increase your electromagnetic output. I’ve personally tried this and found that it works.

There are some people that claim that if you lower your sidestand right on top of one of the road sensors; it will cause your machine to be more easily detected. Personally, I have never done this and from a practical standpoint, I’m not sure if it is a great idea. The fact is, you are more apt to have this problem at night (when there is no other traffic) and trying to look down and find those lines in the road (where the sensors are located) seems impractical to me. Also, I don’t want my attention off of the road while I’m twisting to look down to make sure my sidestand is in contact with the right place in the road.

There are aftermarket companies that offer devices to mount on your machine that will help to trigger these sensors. These devices are (from what I have seen) magnetic blocks that are supposed to be mounted near the bottom of the machine near the road. The problem here is that many motorcycles and scooters have full bodywork that limits your mounting options and may not allow optimum placement. Additionally, like “deer whistles”, I have heard conflicting testimony as to how effective they really are. Some people swear by them…others swear at them.

I have hear it mentioned that one method is to pull the bike over, get off, and look for one of those “Push to Cross” buttons that are mounted on traffic posts. Personally, I find this method to be dubious at best. Yes, I know some people will chime in and say that these buttons really work. What I will say is that in my own personal experience, pushing these buttons has about the same effect as pushing an elevator button repeatedly when it is already lit. That is, it only serves to make you feel as though you are accomplishing something. Another thing to consider is that I don’t believe dismounting near an intersection is the best of ideas. Aside from being impractical, if you leave the bike running, you are risking theft of the machine. If you shut it down, you are risking not being seen by other vehicles (especially at night).

If all of these methods fail you, you are essentially left with two choices. You can either wait patiently for other traffic to arrive and trip the sensor for you, or you can attempt to proceed through the red light.

If there is other traffic on the way, I think the best bet would be just to wait for a moment and let that traffic trip the sensor for you. However, if there is no other traffic in sight, then your best bet would be to make a right turn. In most places (but sadly not in NYC), you can make a legal right turn on red. This would be your safest choice. If this option is not available, then you might have to proceed (with extreme caution) and treat the light as you would a flashing red or stop sign. There are some jurisdictions that have passed laws addressing this very issue that makes it legal for a motorcycle/scooter operator to proceed through a red light in this situation, essentially treating the light as if it were broken. The thing to remember is that this is not the case in the majority of situations and (with the exception of a legal right turn on red) could be considered a traffic violation. Again, I’m not here to preach or to discuss the practicality of the law…I’m here to give information with the expectation that you will do what you feel is necessary and safe.

The final point has to do with these red light sensors, but not how they operate. When these sensors are mounted in the road surface, many times they are covered with an alternate material that is different from the asphalt that is normally used for paving. This is the reason why you can see where they are in the road. There are several problems with this situation. First, the sensor area might be lower than the level of the road which means it could collect oil grime and other material that could reduce traction. Secondly, the actual material they use to cover the sensors might be a soft rubber-like material or even a liquid designed to harden (like “tar snakes”). Finally, the fact that it might not be a smooth surface means that it won’t have the same grip as you would on a smooth patch of road. The point is that in all of these cases, there is a possibility of reduced traction in these areas. Of course, the irony of having reduced traction in precisely the area where the most stopping is expected to occur is not lost on me! I guess it is the same reason that credit card companies put the number to call for lost cards on the back of the card…or the reason the phone company has a number you can call if your phone isn’t working. Needless to say, you should be aware of this and try to adjust your riding style to minimize the risk.

Ride safe and ride often!

-Joe

Photo by Ewan-M

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

You are driving/riding on the highway and traffic begins to slow and stop. While waiting dutifully in your lane for traffic to start moving again, someone on a motorcycle or scooter comes zooming by, in between the lanes, leaving a wave of frustration and envy in their wake.

Whether you call it lane-splitting or white-lining (or a litany of other, less appropriate descriptions I can’t publish here…), this practice has become very popular for riders to the point that it is becoming synonymous with motorcycle operation. Ask any non-rider about riding and there is an excellent chance that they will say something along the lines of, “Yeah, I saw these guys yesterday zipping between the lanes.” Ask a rider and they will tell you that they probably get asked about it by non-riders all the time (“Hey are you one of those guys I saw yesterday zipping between the lanes?”). In motorcycle training, I get asked by parents and significant others, “You aren’t going to teach them how to go zipping between traffic like I saw those guys doing yesterday…are you?!”

Sigh…

OK, first let’s get the main issue out of the way. Lane-Splitting is not legal with the exception of in California (and even then, there are serious restrictions when doing it). From a legal standpoint, it falls under the rules of sharing a single lane and space with another vehicle. Without boring you with the legalese, the point is you are not allowed to share a lane space with another vehicle. (Of course, there are special rules in place regarding two motorcycles sharing a lane in some jurisdictions…but that is another story and not what we are talking about here)

Now, there is a real reason why Lane-Splitting was first recognized as a viable option (and subsequently approved in one of the 50 States). The reason is that years ago, most motorcycle designs used air-cooled engines. These designs (which are still in use today), have exposed engines that have cooling fins on the cylinders which only worked effectively when there was airflow over the fins. In other words…you had to be moving. It was found that motorcycles sitting in traffic ran the risk of quickly overheating (to the point of the machine becoming damaged) and the only way for them to run without this risk was to allow the vehicle to keep moving (and keep that air flowing over the fins).

OK, at least that was the argument at the time. You can make your own conclusions as to if that is an effective argument. Though, since it went 1 out of 50 in being effective at providing legislation…well…make your own conclusions.

What I will say is that many motorcycle designs at the time absolutely suffered from the real danger of overheating in extremely slow and stopped traffic. This is not an opinion…it is an engineering fact.

Now, given this information, are these arguments still valid today? Well, from a practical standpoint, not really. The vast majority of motorcycle designs today use water-cooled engines complete with radiators and fans. Even those motorcycles that are still air (or oil) cooled are built to more exacting tolerances and can run fine in very hot weather in very slow traffic. Case in point: One of my bikes is a Ducati Monster 1000. This has an air/oil cooled, very high performance engine and yes, I have used it many times during my 1 ½ to 2-hour commute into Manhattan with no overheating issues. The point is that while the original argument may have been valid (and I do stress the “may”…), today’s designs render most of these points moot. Yes, I do remember the days when this was the case…it was around the same time that some of us needed a screwdriver to jump the starter contacts to start a troublesome automobile. It also occurred around the time that we had to change our distributor points, occasionally bang the starter motor with a hammer, hold open the carburetor butterfly because the engine flooded and Pet Rocks were considered a good idea.

So let’s cut through all the nonsense and tell it like it is (um…is my NY attitude showing…?). People aren’t Lane Splitting because it is an engine safety issue. They are doing it because it is a time saver. If you try to convince me otherwise, I will find your argument will have the same unintentional humor as when someone in shorts, no shirt, sandals, no helmet and no previous training tries to convince me that their bike has loud pipes because they are concerned about safety.

From a time-saving standpoint, Lane-Splitting can seem like an attractive option. But since we already know that it isn’t legal (for the most part), is it safe? There are some very good reasons to do something that isn’t otherwise legal in the name of safety. A few scenarios that come to mind are, crossing a double-yellow line to avoid an obstacle, preceding through a red light to allow emergency vehicles to pass through or riding/driving a damaged machine on the shoulder.

So, the real question is, is this a safe thing to do? The answer, as you can probably guess, is “No”. I have no intention of getting all preachy with you, but there are several reasons why you should know it isn’t safe. The first (and most obvious) is that other drivers can wander or switch lanes and cause you to crash. In the event of a crash while Lane-Splitting, understand that you will be sandwiched between the vehicles. There is no room to get away from the motorcycle or scooter and your injuries can be quite significant when you are essentially crushed between your machine and a car. Of course, this coincides with things drivers may do intentionally or unintentionally to make your life miserable. Aside from swerving to cut you off, people also have a nasty tendency of throwing things like cigarettes, drinks and other undesirable objects out of their window. The second (and less obvious reason) why Lane-Splitting is dangerous has to do with the actual road surface. Since this portion of the road was never intended for prolonged traffic, roads tend to have characteristics and objects on these parts that make for some lousy traction. The first is, of course, the lines. The paint used for traffic lines is very slippery. It is designed to be this way. Ever notice that the white and yellow lines are always bright and shiny? The reason is the paint is designed to be slippery so dirt, oil and grime can’t stick to it. The second reason is that generally, the seams of the road are routinely placed in these areas. This way, normal expansion and contraction with the weather doesn’t affect the intended driving surface. This also means that the road surface can be uneven on the seams. Finally, some highways have reflective markers set into the road at the painted lines to aid in night driving. Hitting these markers is at best, uncomfortable and at worst, can cause your tire to skip sideways and lose traction.

Finally, the last reason why Lane-Splitting is a bad idea is one of liability. Remember, we now live in a society where past legal actions have forced us to put the words “Contents are Hot!” on the top of coffee cups. My big-screen TV has a tag on the power cord that says, “Do Not Use While Bathing” and my hair dryer has a tag that states, “Do Not Use While Sleeping”. Understand that no matter what the circumstances…no matter what the other driver did…no matter how slow (or fast) you were traveling…if you hit another vehicle (or person!) while Lane-Splitting, you are 100% at fault. You will incur all of the bills and the blame for that accident. You can also check with your insurance carrier to see if you are covered for accident and injury while intentionally operating your machine in an illegal manner. The results of that inquiry may be surprising to you…

So, with all of this said, we know Lane-Splitting is illegal, risky and should not be done. Of course, now comes the time where I throw a little twist into the mix!

You should all understand what Lane –Splitting is and what the mechanics of it are.

Yes, you read that right. You need to know what it is and how it works. Plain and simple, you have to understand that there is one time where this knowledge can save your life. In stop-and-go traffic, when performing a very hard stop or even while waiting at a light/stop sign, the space in between the cars in front of you can be your escape route in the event that the person behind you can’t stop in time. Getting rear-ended hard in traffic is a very real danger, especially since we are smaller and less obvious than the other traffic out there. Escaping between the cars in front can mean the difference of avoiding injury or being hit from behind and crushed between bumpers. Of course, we are not talking about continuing on afterwards, but the point is that you should be keeping an eye on that car or truck behind you and position yourself every time to use an escape route if necessary.

Hopefully, this article cast some light on the issues concerning Lane-Splitting. Yes, it could save time, but that argument could be applied to riding at triple-digit speeds. Yes, it may have kept bikes from overheating, though the machines of today don’t suffer from the same engineering issues of those from 30+ years ago. Yes, you may think that you can manage the risk, though the other drivers and even the road itself is conspiring against you. We all make our own choices and as riders, we must manage our own risk. However, when the law, the environment, the other users and the liability all are staking the deck against you, perhaps saving that 10 minutes just isn’t worth it.

Ride safe and ride often!

-Joe

Photo by omniNate

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.

This is the first in what I hope is an ongoing series of motorcycle and scooter safety articles from Joe Aiello who is the State Administrator of the New York State Motorcycle Safety Program. If you have suggestions for topics to be covered in upcoming articles, please leave them in the comments section below. — Steve

If there was one subject that is sure to spark controversy in the motorcycling world, hands down that subject would have to revolve around helmets. Just simply mention helmet laws or helmet use and you will be sure to attract individuals from both sides of the fence. Armed with their own “facts”, observations, experiences and beliefs, proponents of both points of view will deluge anyone within earshot in an attempt to convince them that their point of view is the right point of view. You can (and most probably will) get quite the headache trying to respectfully listen to both sides when this happens.

The point of this article is not to discuss the issues of helmet laws or whether such laws are proper. There is a time and a place for those articles and arguments.

What I will say is that from my own personal experience, I have decided to always wear a helmet. Of course, the first question one may ask is, “Well, what makes you an expert in this field?” Well, I’m glad you asked!

Aside from administering a state-wide motorcycle safety program, I am also a certified MSF RiderCoach, a NYS Motorcycle Safety Instructor, a former EMT, an amateur racer (in my younger days) and I presently put about 15,000 miles a year on motorcycles. Most of that mileage is driving 40-miles (each way) into Manhattan during rush hour traffic.

‘Nuff said?

Steve at BurgmanRiders.com was good enough to contact me regarding some safety articles for his website. Steve asked that the first of these articles, deal with helmet specific issues. So without further ado…let’s get right into it!

When choosing a helmet, a rider will immediately find that it is easy to get overwhelmed quite quickly with the (literally) thousands of choices available. Styles, colors, ratings, certifications…it all becomes white-noise to the average person quite easily! Let’s take a moment to review the basic principles of helmet design.

First and foremost, when choosing a helmet, you have to ensure that your helmet meets DOT standards. Novelty helmets are not helmets. Novelty helmets are little more than hats…or as I like to call them, “Plastic Yarmulkes”. A DOT certification indicates that the helmet was submitted to the DOT for testing. The things that are tested are how much energy the helmet transfers to the head during an impact and the ability of the retention system (the chin-strap and buckle) to remain intact when force is applied. In this case, understand that for all intents and purposes, one DOT-approved helmet will offer the same protection as another DOT-approved helmet.

Snell ratings for helmets are done independently of DOT. Snell is not a federal rating and as such, a Snell rating does not determine if the helmet is legal for use in the US. Snell ratings differ from DOT ratings in that they test the impact absorption characteristics of helmets by subjecting them to multiple, smaller impacts in the same area as opposed to the one large impact. There are some other differences but what you need to know is that DOT is the standard used by the government and therefore is the standard that determines the legal status of street use for the helmet. The good news is that I am not aware of Snell-only certified helmets being offered in the US…so think of this rating as something extra.

What to look for in a helmet:

When choosing a helmet, you will see that there are 4 main parts that must be considered.

• The first (and most obvious) is the outer shell. This is designed to protect against penetrating objects, to keep the shape of the helmet and, of course, is the part that is painted.
• The second is the impact liner. The impact liner is inside of the entire helmet and is made of a material called Expanded Polystyrene (or “EPS” for short). This is a substance very similar to Styrofoam and is designed to crush (and subsequently be destroyed) when an impact takes place. Since EPS is not very soft and doesn’t absorb sweat, it isn’t very comfortable…which is why the third part, the comfort liner, is built into the design.
• The comfort liner is made up of soft material and padding to make the helmet more comfortable and fit your head better.
• The final part of the helmet is the retention system. This is more commonly referred to as the chin-strap and buckle. There are different designs (some use the standard D-Rings while other use quick release type buckles) but they all serve the exact same purpose: To secure the helmet to your head and ensure that it stays there in the event of a crash.

With the ratings and parts of the helmet understood, let’s take a look at the next issue: the style of helmet. Presently you have 4 choices of helmets to choose from.

• The Full-Face Helmet

  This helmet is a helmet that (go figure) covers your entire head and face. With the exception of off-road (motocross) which are designed to work with goggles, most full-face street helmets also have a face shield built into them. This is important because the face shield serves as acceptable eye protection as it is designed to be shatterproof and impact resistant. Another factor to consider is that during highway crash investigations, it was found that the chin bar of the helmet received impacts around 20% of the time.

• The ¾ Open Face Helmet

  A ¾ helmet has no chin bar in the design, though the helmet will cover the sides of your face. In many cases, ¾ helmets can also have a face shield attached that can pivot up and out of your field of view. Note that in the absence of a face shield, it is absolutely critical (and in many states, the law) that you wear approved motorcycle eye protection. Since many of you reading this are Burgman pilots (yeah, the website address gave that away…you can’t get anything past me I tell ya!), you may believe that your windscreen provides the necessary eye protection. This is absolutely NOT the case and your windscreen is not, and never was designed to be, a replacement for eye protection.

• The ½ Helmet

  Sometimes referred to as the “Shorty” or the “Beanie”, the ½ helmet is designed to only cover the top portion of your head, leaving the sides of your face and your ears exposed. While it is the smallest, lightest and (from a temperature, not a status standpoint) the coolest helmet, it also affords the least amount of coverage and protection. Like the ¾, you must also wear eye protection if using this type of helmet.

• The Modular/Flip-Up Helmet

  This is a design that has been getting more and more popular with riders. It is essentially a Full Face helmet that is designed to have the entire chin bar assembly rotate up away from your face. Many people prefer this type of helmet because it protects like a Full Face, yet allows you to rotate it up to talk with people or take a drink or even put on eyeglasses easier. While a marvelous design, there are some points that you need to look at. The first is that there is no standard that I know of that tests the retention value of the flip-up chin bar. So, you need to look at the mechanism to ensure that it is a sturdy construction. In this case, the beefier (and more metallic) the better. The second point is that there are some manufacturers that don’t include EPS in the chin bars of flip-up helmets. While these will protect you better than nothing, they will not be as good as those with EPS in the chin bar. Just something you need to look for and consider. Finally, these types of helmets are designed to be put on and off with the chin bar in the up position (not in the down and locked position). Again, not a big deal, but something you need to remember, especially if you are used to full face helmets. Failure to do so will result in a painful episode with your nose (don’t ask how I know this…).

So, the next question you may have is: “What is the difference between a $70 helmet and a $1,000 helmet?” Well, in terms of safety and usability, not much. The price differences are normally attributed to cosmetics (such as colors and/or graphics), weight and comfort. More expensive helmets may use shells made of more exotic materials (like Kevlar, carbon fiber, etc.) to reduce their weight and make them more comfortable. Additionally, the more expensive helmet may have a better comfort liner and padding. Of course, they could be painted in special paints (like metal flake) or have better graphics which will add to the cost. Here’s something to consider, look at any model of helmet made by a company and you will see that the “special” colors are more expensive than the “standard” colors for the exact same model helmet. Your cash…your choice.

One important factor you must be made aware of is that a helmet is designed for only ONE IMPACT. Yes, you read that right…like an airbag or a bullet-proof vest, a helmet is only good for that one time and then must be replaced. Even if there is very little or no visible damage, the helmet must be inspected and (most likely) replaced. The reason is that the damage is done to the EPS, which is very hard to detect and it is the EPS that actually protects you from the impact. If you subject the helmet to any hard impact (and this includes dropping it onto a hard surface) then this helmet must be either sent back to the manufacturer for inspection or simply replaced immediately.

“A good general rule-of-thumb is that you should replace your helmet every 5 years or so.”

The last point about helmets is that they still have a finite service life regardless if they were never subjected to an impact. A good general rule-of-thumb is that you should replace your helmet every 5 years or so. The reason is that the sweat from your head eventually will damage the EPS liner in the helmet. Have you ever had a Styrofoam cooler that has been out in the sun for too long or has been sitting in a garage for a few years? Notice how it gets very brittle over time and begins to break apart? Well, the same will eventually happen to your liner and it won’t be able to provide the same protection after time. So, consider that your helmet should be used for 5 years or less and you will probably avoid the chance of wearing a helmet that may not have its full protective value.

The final point I want to mention is how to pick the helmet that is right for you. In this case, the only way for you to tell is to actually go to a store/dealership and try one on. Though I have used mail order and internet distributors for a number of motorcycle related items, this should not be the case with a helmet. Helmet manufacturers all use different head-forms when designing their helmets. Some manufactures fit people with oval-shaped heads better while others are more suited for rounder heads. The only way to tell which is right for you is to put on the helmet and wear it for a while. A helmet that doesn’t fit well is extremely dangerous because pinching and pressure points can distract you so much that you will be at severe risk while riding. Ever have a pebble in your shoe? Remember how it gets to the point that you no longer can think of anything else other than removing that pebble? The same can (and will) happen with an ill-fitting helmet. That is not the position you want to be in while riding in traffic.

When trying on a new helmet, take special notice of the pressure it places on your temples and your forehead. If you feel significant pressure on these points when you first put on the helmet, you can expect that to turn into excruciating pain after an hour or so. Also, when checking for a correct fit, make sure that you can’t remove the helmet once it is on and the chin strap secured by attempting to roll it forwards or backwards off of your head. Additionally, when properly worn, the helmet should not be able to turn on your head from side to side. Look in a mirror and see if the liner grips your skin when you try to move the helmet around.

Hopefully you found this information informative. We will try to tackle some other subjects in the future.

Ride safe and ride often!

-Joe

Photo by Teosaurio

©2010 Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders - 'Lovers of Fun'. All Rights Reserved.